Before your Maytag Bravos XL dryer can dry clothes, which is its job, it must first get hot. Some issues, however, can stop it from doing so, and if so, you’ll have to find an explanation for your Maytag Bravos XL dryer not heating and fix it.
Your Maytag Bravos XL dryer isn’t getting hot because of a lack of power, poor loading, wrong heat setting, airflow restriction, a non-working heating element, or a blown-up fuse. And if the dryer is gas-powered, the issue could be a failed gas supply or a defective igniter or flame sensor.
So, you must recognize which of these issues affect your Bravos dryer and address it, and this guide will come in handy. We’ll mention the probable causes and highlight the specific fixes that apply to each.
Let’s jump straight into it!
In a rush? See what to do depending on what’s stopping your Maytag Bravos XL dryer from getting hot.
Maytag Bravos XL Dryer Not Heating – Quick Troubleshooting Guide
| – | Likely Reason | Recommended Fix |
| Electric Dryer | ||
| 1. | Lack of Power | Check the power supply and ensure the dryer power is on |
| 2. | Poor Loading | Don’t overload the drum. Also, avoid loading extra wet laundry |
| 3. | Wrong Heat Setting | Avoid no-heat or low-heat dryer settings like Air Fluff and Wrinkle Prevent |
| 4. | Airflow Restriction | Clean the lint screens and dryer vents if clogged |
| 5. | Non-Working Heating Element | Replace the heating element if it fails to show continuity |
| 6. | Blown-Up Thermal Fuse | Replace the thermal fuse if it fails to show continuity |
| Gas Dryer | ||
| 7. | Failed Gas Supply | Turn on the gas supply valve and replace a defective solenoid |
| 8. | Defective Igniter | Replace the flame igniter if it fails to show continuity |
| 9. | Defective Flame Sensor | Replace the flame sensor if it fails to show continuity |
Maytag Bravos XL Electric Dryer Not Heating
Consider these six issues if your Maytag Bravos XL electric dryer won’t get hot:
1. The Dryer Lacks Power
Your Maytag Bravos XL dryer won’t start without power. If it doesn’t start, it won’t get hot. So, you’ve to check if the dryer is powered on. If it’s not, consider these issues:
- Wrong voltage supply – Maytag recommends wall outlets with a voltage supply of at least 240v. If it’s under that, the power won’t be sufficient to run the dryer and heat it.
- Loose power plug – The dryer won’t receive enough voltage to run if the power cord is not firmly affixed to the wall socket.
- Tripped breaker – If a power surge occurs, the circuit breaker will likely trip up. When it does, it disrupts the dryer’s power supply, so it cannot run.
- Defective outlet – If the electric outlet has an issue, it’ll stop the dryer from turning on, and even if it turns on, it’s unable to get hot.
- Extension cord usage – An extension cord is not a good choice for powering a dryer. Very few can deliver 100% power to the dryer, so it’s recommended to plug it into the wall socket.
Fix
Generally, you’ll need a multimeter here which doubles up as your voltage and continuity checker. Use it to measure the socket’s voltage supply if you are unsure. If it’s less than 240v, call an electrician to fix it for you.
Also, use the multimeter on the outlet to determine if it has continuity. If it doesn’t, that’s another reason to call an electrician. But if you can change the wall socket, which shouldn’t be hard, do it.
Meanwhile, ensure you firmly affix the power cord to the wall socket– not the extension cord and reset the power breaker – if it’s off.
2. Poor Laundry Loading
Sometimes the Maytag dryer won’t heat up because the wet clothes are poorly loaded into the drum. Here’s what could go wrong:
- The laundry could be too wet – Though the dryer’s job is to dry wet clothes, the clothes shouldn’t be too wet. If they are so, the dryer may interpret it as a mechanical fault and will fail to heat up.
- The laundry could be too large or in excess – Ideally, you shouldn’t overfill the dryer. The maximum you should go is 3⁄4. If you surpass that, there won’t be enough room for the clothes to turn or the hot air to circulate, and consequently, the dryer will stay cold.
Fix
Feel your wet laundry by hand to assess the level of wetness. If they are soaking wet, run the spin/drain + Spin cycles to remove the excess water.
However, you can avoid all that by running the spin cycle while the clothes are in the washer before conveying them to the dryer. Alternatively, wring out the excess water by hand.
And while loading them into the dryer, keep the drum’s capacity ¾ or less but not under ½.
3. Wrong Heat Setting
Maytag dryers have many settings. While all these settings have roles to play, not all of them promote heating. Some don’t produce heat at all, as is the case of Air Fluff, while others are low-heat options, as is the point of Wrinkle Prevent.
Fix
Check if Air Fluff (or any other no heat setting) or Wrinkle Prevent (or any other low heat setting) is active and turn it off. You’ll need to pick a normal or high-heat setting if you want your dryer to get hot.
4. Airflow Restriction (Clogging)
Good airflow is pivotal for the dryer to get hot and dry clothes. If there’s clogging, the dryer may turn on and fail to get hot or take forever to heat up, and you wouldn’t want that.
Here’s what to check here:
- Vent clogging – The dryer vent should be free from lint and dirt-clogging for proper airflow in and out of it. If the vents are clogged, they interfere with airflow and heating.
- Lint screen clogging – The lint screen is another component that can block by the same lint it is supposed to stop from getting into the vent. When it does, it limits airflow, preventing the dryer from getting hot.
Fix
Pull out the lint screen and clean off the lint. First, remove the lint blockage with your fingers, and then use a nylon brush with mild detergent and water. Once the lint screen is clean and dry, return it to its place.
As for the dryer vents, inspect them for clogging and clean them, too, preferably with a household vacuum cleaner. This should be routine every once in a year (or two years).
5. Non-Working Maytag Bravos XL Dryer Heating Element
Before cold air gets hot and makes the dryer hot, it must go through the heating element. So, the heating element’s job is to heat the arriving cold air.
Sometimes, however, the heating element fails, and when it does, it’s unable to heat the cold air in the dryer. In consequence, the dryer fails to get hot.
Fix
Using a multimeter, you can tell if your dryer’s heating element is defective, and the absence of continuity proves that. Consider a Maytag Bravos XL dryer heating element replacement in such a case.
6. Blown-up Thermal Fuse
Dryers can easily catch fire. That, however, rarely happens because of the thermal fuse. This cutout fuse blows up sacrificially during a power surge in place of the dryer.
The aftermath, however, is that the dryer fails to power on and, therefore, can’t get hot.
Fix
Also, use the multimeter on the thermal fuse to check if it has continuity. If it doesn’t, that proves it’s burnt, and you should replace it.
Maytag Bravos XL Gas Dryer Not Heating
If you have a Bravos XL gas dryer that won’t get hot, consider the above issues first (besides a non-working heating element).
Once you rule them out, consider that your gas dryer doesn’t heat up due to one of these issues:
7. Failed Gas Supply
The gas dryer receives gas through a valve which should be parallel to the supply tube to open up. If it’s perpendicular, gas won’t flow.
And before the gas can get to the burner to ignite, it goes through the solenoid valve, which might be defective.
8. Defective Igniter
The igniter’s role is to heat the arriving gas, enabling the burner to get hot. It, however, may burn out and fail to execute its job.
9. Defective Flame Sensor
The flame sensor’s job is to sense the flame-produced heat. Like the igniter, it can fail. When it does, the dryer cannot get hot.
Fix
Turn on the gas supply valve parallel to the supply tube to open it and allow gas flow if that’s not the case. Check if the igniter is glowing, but if it only does it briefly but does not produce a flame, replace the solenoid.
Meanwhile, use a multimeter to check if the igniter and flame sensor have electrical continuity. If they don’t, replace them.
Other Issues That Could Stop a Maytag Bravos XL Dryer from Getting Hot
Though it’s not as common, your Maytag Bravos XL dryer may fail to get hot if any of these components fail: the drive motor, timer, cycling thermostat, hi-li thermostat, thermistor, and main control board.
Fix
Replace any of the above parts once you confirm they are faulty. Use your manual here or ask for a dryer expert’s help.
Maytag Bravos XL Dryer Not Drying All The Way
A Maytag Bravos XL dryer will fail to dry for most of the reasons it won’t get hot. In such a case, you’ll end up with wet clothes. Here are some possible explanations:
- Timed setting such as Timed Dry, which only allows the dryer to dry for a particular period
- The clothes could be soaking wet, too large, or overloaded
- Clogged lint screens or dryer vents
- Failed heating element
People Also Ask
1. Why Is My Maytag Bravos Dryer Not Getting Hot?
Your Maytag Bravos dryer won’t get hot for different reasons. It could be failed power supply, vent or lint screen blockage, laundry overload, soaking wet laundry, or a defective heating element or fuse.
2. Why Is My Maytag Bravos XL Dryer Not Drying?
Your Maytag Bravos XL dryer is not drying because the clothes are too wet or overloaded, the lint screen or vents are lint-clogged, or the heating element or thermal fuse is faulty. However, don’t forget the setting, as it could be a low-heat option.
3. Why Is My Dryer Running But Not Heating?
Your dryer is running but not heating because of poor airflow (relating to clogged vents or lint screens), a no-heat setting such as Air Fluff, or poor laundry loading. The laundry could be excess (over ¾ full) or too wet.
Concluding Thoughts On a Maytag Bravos XL Dryer Not Heating:
It doesn’t go beyond the shared reasons when your Maytag Bravos XL dryer won’t get hot. You can’t overlook failed power supply, airflow, laundry loading, and a defective heating element or thermal fuse.
And if it’s a gas option, you must ensure the gas valve is open, and the solenoid, flame, sensor, and igniter are working. But if you still can’t find the underlying problem, consider that the drive motor, timer, cycling or hi-li thermostat, thermistor, or main control board could be defective.